El Porto Pumps

Today was prime! With a predicted 6-8ft occ. 10 WNW swell for south Los Angeles beaches, El Porto was going to be the call. EL Porto is know for its heaving barrels, babes, and smoke stacks. Today, the barrels came out to play (that sounded quite stupid I realize). As we pulled into the parking lot, I just about lost it. I was seriously going mental! Photographers lined the beach, guys were coming in with broken boards, and I...well, I forgot my leash so I had to run up the street and fanatically look for a surf shop. Once I solved that problem, I scrambled back to the beach where I took a few quick snapshots of the surf and a short video of my buddy Riley prepping for some sever beatings (which were soon to follow). Out of the 5 buddies that I paddled out with only one other one made it out. Some of them tried several times but weren't able to find a rip current to pull them out. After 20 minutes of taking some of the heaviest waves I had been out in CA over the past couple of years I finally made it out. As the sets rolled in I knew I had brought the wrong board (mine is 5'10) and I'm 6'3. Ammeture mistake. One canyon set came in out of no where (El Porto has an underwater canyon which funnels any swell onto this break doubling the size of any normal set) and I barely made it over. The wave looked like something at Pipe. It was massive! The guy behind me wasn't so lucky. After waiting patiently for 30mins for a make able wave, one finally came in. I was able to get two off the top turns in before the massive wall of water exploded inches behind me. My buddies were over waiting on the beach and wanted me to come in so we packed our bags and ended up surfing again at Redondo Beach. The waves were half the size so probably around 5 ft, but I still caught a couple fun ones. 21/100

-I drove to the beach (extra mile assignment)