Broken Boards at Redondo

Got up early this morning to surf Redondo in LA with Ian, Cory and Riley. The drive is about an hour since we all go to college in Azusa, CA (just east of downtown Los Angeles). Waves weren't off the chain or anything but there were a couple solid makers. My bud Riley got sucked over the falls on one wave, and snapped his board in half. Too bad it was on a borrowed board. About 10 minutes later Cory pulled into the wave of the day and got munched in the barrel. He also snapped his board in half. On our way back to the car, Ian dropped his board. It just wasn't the day to own a surfboard I guess. 41/100

San Diego Surf Sesh

Had a sick surf this am with my buds, Ian, Cory and Colin. We surfed my home break Seaside in San Diego. It was a solid 4-6ft with the occasional 7 footer. We shared the lineup with two of the worlds best surfers (also two of my favorites), Damien Hobgood and Taylor Knox along with Kelly Slater's personal photographer, Steve Sherman. After our surf we talked a bit with Taylor Knox in the parkinglot and then headed down the road to get Acai Bowls. Yewwwwww! 31/100

Here's a lil vid from this am's surf. Edited by: Ian Blair

El Porto Pumps

Today was prime! With a predicted 6-8ft occ. 10 WNW swell for south Los Angeles beaches, El Porto was going to be the call. EL Porto is know for its heaving barrels, babes, and smoke stacks. Today, the barrels came out to play (that sounded quite stupid I realize). As we pulled into the parking lot, I just about lost it. I was seriously going mental! Photographers lined the beach, guys were coming in with broken boards, and I...well, I forgot my leash so I had to run up the street and fanatically look for a surf shop. Once I solved that problem, I scrambled back to the beach where I took a few quick snapshots of the surf and a short video of my buddy Riley prepping for some sever beatings (which were soon to follow). Out of the 5 buddies that I paddled out with only one other one made it out. Some of them tried several times but weren't able to find a rip current to pull them out. After 20 minutes of taking some of the heaviest waves I had been out in CA over the past couple of years I finally made it out. As the sets rolled in I knew I had brought the wrong board (mine is 5'10) and I'm 6'3. Ammeture mistake. One canyon set came in out of no where (El Porto has an underwater canyon which funnels any swell onto this break doubling the size of any normal set) and I barely made it over. The wave looked like something at Pipe. It was massive! The guy behind me wasn't so lucky. After waiting patiently for 30mins for a make able wave, one finally came in. I was able to get two off the top turns in before the massive wall of water exploded inches behind me. My buddies were over waiting on the beach and wanted me to come in so we packed our bags and ended up surfing again at Redondo Beach. The waves were half the size so probably around 5 ft, but I still caught a couple fun ones. 21/100

-I drove to the beach (extra mile assignment)

Georges

I cruised on down to San Diego with a few buds last night to crash at my pad. We woke at the butt crack of dawn and paddled out at Seaside. As the sun rised, so did the local surf rats and it became way too crowded, so we moved on down the beach to a spot called Georges. Georges is more of a hollow, fast beach break, but with the tide running around 5ft, it was quite mushy. I somehow got on a nice 5 footer and was able to do a combination of maneuvers. I got at least 6 solid cutbacks and snaps on this one wave. I was stoked! It was defiantly the longest wave I've EVER had out there! 10/100