Saturday, April 28, 2012

Turkeymelt.com

My favorite surfer, Alex Gray, just posted this on his facebook. "Since I am hosting the Billabong XXL Awards 2012, I figured you and a friend should come with me! In order to win 2 free tickets, all you have to do is take a photo of you eating a turkeymelt in a fun place. Person having the most fun wins! Come hang, and party with me" So I thought..."I'd like to party with Alex" and went out on a mission to accomplish this challeng. I sent in this entry riding my trustee shark in a banana suit....

-Eat a sandwich, in the barrel, on a shark in a banana suit. Check

85/100

Sunday, April 8, 2012

Strands

Just got back from Kauai last night and heard there was a little swell running. Paddled out at Strands with a few friends and scored it! I love coming home after a fun trip only to find more good waves!

84/100 

Saturday, April 7, 2012

Chillin With Laird


Today was just plain epic! It started out with catching up with an old friend (Skyler) who I used to lifeguard with in Solana Beach who recently moved out here to Kaui. We surfed a crap beachie on the east side with howling on shores but I still had a blast. We then went out to dinner with my buddies uncle and auntie at the Blue Snapper on the North Shore of Kaui. We ended up eating next to the gorgeous surfer chic, Alana Blanchard. Then after that we cruised over to the worlds gnarliest big wave tow in surfer, Laird Hamilton's house, since Ian's aunt lives next door to him. As we knocked on Lairds door, all I could picture was some massive, superhuman answering. As we waited patiently, we finally saw a big head pop up on the couch. He was only wearing trunks. It looked like tree trunks had been attached to where his limbs would be. As he marched to the door! I kinda was trippin thinkin like, " I hope he's cool with us interrupting", "I hope he doesn't break my hand". He was actually really rad. Really cool and personable but super super intense. We talked a bit about the surf and what types of food he eats to stay fit. I had to keep reminding myself "Goodness gracious, I am talkin to THE man THE Laird Hamilton."

-Met a pro surfer   

74/100

Tuesday, April 3, 2012

Tunnels for Days


I'm absolutely FROTHING brah!! Today was a gem! For the past few days, Iv been crusin on Kauai, HI. My buddy Ian came over yesterday so all we've been doing is surfing and well surfing. Today got off to a slow start since we've been trying to find all the different surf spots here. And I love searching for new secret surf spots. Anyway, we headed down to a place called "Tunnels", which is known for its tunnel like barrels as well as being the place Bethany Hamilton lost her arm to a shark..... Either way, I don't think Tunnels was the right word for the place today. It shoud've been called Caverns! It was 3-4 Hawaiian style, so 6-10ft if your from the mainland. I swear I saw soo many people get stand up barrels today, a rodeo clown wouldn't have known what to do! The place was exactly like G-land; glassy, crystal blue water, and hollow as all get out! All the local Kaui boys were freaking out it, so I knew it was going. I couldn't believe what I was surfing let alone watching! I thought I had died and gone to heaven! After the 1/2 mile paddle back in we headed over to the N. Side of Hanalei Bay to surf "Hideaways". The place was fun and just a little over head high. We caught a few sick ones before being hassled by some kook who tried to fight me after dropping in on me! KOOK! When we came in, there was a massive sea turtle just chillin on the beach. I'm pretty sure he was Crush from Nemo since he looked over 500yrs!

-Surfed in another state
-Drove to the beach

63/100