Sunday, February 5, 2012

Cardiff

Cardiff Reef. Mostly a longboarders wave, but can occasionally turn on. Its mostly a right but with a negative low tide a left will appear. This wave is called Suckouts, as it will suck off the reef and turn into a hollow barrel. Cardiff has been compared to the Super Bank in Australia when its on. Today. It was on. I rode my friends 5'10 which could barely float me. I surfed suckouts which is more of a faster wave since my board wouldn't be able to handle the mushy rights. I surfed there only for a little as the wave soon became over run by too many guys. You can usually count on things like this happening when you live in So Cal so we moved south where good 'ol Gergoes was awaiting. No one was out since every wave was a close out but I decided to give it a go to get away form the crowd. I scored a screaming little barrel. I was frothing! I didn't make it out, but I could care less. The vision inside the barrel a.k.a. "the womb" is a priceless sight and will continue to keep me coming back for more! I was STOKED! 51/100